Journey to Atlantis (Indonesia - Part 1)


    After two surf lessons where I felt my instructor was not challenging me enough, I decided to try a different one. It's worth mentioning that this is my first ever venture into surfing.

    We went to a different spot - one that required taking a boat to where the waves break over a coral reef. Quite the upgrade from the waist-level gently sloshing water with a sandy bottom that I was on the day before.

    From shore it looks like there’s a bunch of ants bobbling on top of a white froth. I barely know how to stand and I’m tasked with avoiding moving obstacles, some of which are just as inept as I am.

    “Ready?”

    Does he mean physicaly, mentally, emotionally, or spiritually? Honestly the answer is no to all the above.

    My instructor positions me in front of the next wave, gives me a push, and off I go.

    I didn’t even try to get up before I abandoned the board to avoid a collision. At this point, straight is the only direction I can go.

    First sinus cleanse of the day is complete. I swim up to the surface and look around for my board.

    This is when I learn I’ve entered the hell zone.

    Another wave is coming and it's looking dangerously close to breaking.

    I’m still getting over the first sinus cleanse as the second wave crashes down on me, sending me tumbling underwater.

    The board rips away from me and by the grace of that little tethered foot thing doesn't go off to Australia.

    I realize I'm now fighting for survival. Half-blinded and spitting out salt water, I grab the board and scramble up on that thing like Rose from Titanic.

    A moment of calm.

    Just as I’ve mentally recovered from that onslaught, here comes the third wave.

    I try to hold on and stay above water, but no. The wave catapults me over again for another thorough neti pot experience.

    At last there's an opportunity to escape the hell zone. Frantically I paddle to get out of the line of fire. It'll be ten minutes of paddling back up for another round of fun.


      Turns out surfing is 70% being a human paddleboat and 20% sinus cleansing.

      I’ve never had cleaner sinuses, nor sorer triceps.


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